Dermidia

Care Guide

How to choose a body moisturizer

The Dry Skin Index tells you when the air in your home is getting drier. Which moisturizer to use depends on where your skin is dry, how it feels, and a texture you will keep using. We have compiled some research studies to help inform your choice.

Four questions

  1. 1

    Where is your skin dry?

    Shins and lower legs are often the driest skin on the body and are the best-studied area. Arms and torso mostly need easy coverage.

  2. 2

    How does it feel?

    Dry and tight calls for a water-binding moisturizer. Rough or scaly calls for a smoothing lotion. Cracked, bleeding or sore skin needs a clinician.

  3. 3

    Which texture will you keep using?

    A lotion can work as well as a cream. Pick the feel, finish and bottle you will reach for every day.

  4. 4

    When should you step up?

    That is what the Dry Skin Index is for: it tracks how drying the air in your home is, so you know when to add a step.

What is in a moisturizer

Most moisturizers mix several kinds of ingredients. A large review of the research found the benefits of urea and glycerin better documented than those of many other ingredients. Ceramides are common and fit how skin is built, but small studies show at most a slight edge for them, not enough to rank products by it. The finished formula, and whether you keep using it, matter more than any single ingredient.

Kinds of moisturizer ingredients
KindExamples on the labelWhat it does
Water-binders(humectants)Glycerin, urea, sodium PCA, sodium lactate, hyaluronic acidDraw water into the skin's outer layer.
Sealers(occlusives)Petrolatum, mineral oil, dimethiconeForm a thin film that slows water loss.
Softeners(emollients)Fatty alcohols, shea butter, squalane, plant oilsSmooth the surface and shape how the product feels.
Skin fats(barrier lipids)Ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acidsSimilar to the fats that hold the skin's outer barrier together.
Smoothers(exfoliants)Higher-strength urea, lactic acidLoosen rough, scaly buildup. They can sting cracked or irritated skin.

A short study found glycerin mainly added water to the skin while petrolatum mainly slowed water loss, which is why many good formulas combine the two.

Ingredient research we have compiled →

By body area

Skin holds different amounts of water in different places. In one small study the mid-calf was the driest of five sites measured, well below the forearm and torso.

Starting points by body area
AreaWhere to startHow solid is the advice
Lower legs and shinsA water-binding lotion or cream. For rough or scaly patches on unbroken skin, a smoothing lotion with urea.Best-studied area for comparing products.
ArmsA lotion or cream with glycerin, urea or ceramides. A lighter feel helps if you dress right after.Some forearm studies; whole-arm advice is practical judgment.
Torso and backAn easy-spreading lotion for coverage, with a richer cream for small patches if you like.Little research comparing products here.
HandsA fragrance-free cream after washing. Petroleum jelly for very dry spots, often at night.Dermatology guidance.
Feet and heelsA urea cream for thick, dry, unbroken skin. Petroleum jelly for dry heels.Deep, bleeding or infected cracks, and foot problems with diabetes, need a clinician.

Pick a texture you will keep using

In a trial of 550 children with eczema, lotions, creams, gels and ointments worked about equally well over 16 weeks. Families liked ointments least, and pumps and bottles were often easier than tubs. In a lower-leg study of adults, a lotion raised skin hydration more than a cream. Those studies were in specific groups, but the lesson carries: the best moisturizer is one you are happy to put on every day.

When and how often

Apply soon after bathing, while skin is still slightly damp, and use enough to cover the area. If dryness persists and the product feels comfortable, add a second application, for example in the evening. In a small lower-leg study, twice-daily use improved hydration compared with untreated skin. Follow each product's directions.

What the Dry Skin Index does, and does not do

The Dry Skin Index describes how drying the air in your home is likely to be. Use a rise in the index as a cue to check dry-prone areas, moisturize after bathing and review your routine. The index was not tested as a way to choose a specific product or schedule, and it cannot tell whether your skin needs medical care.

Sources

Several studies were funded by or involved moisturizer makers; we note this where it applies.

Dermidia offers care recommendations, not medical advice. If you have eczema, diabetes, poor circulation, immune suppression, open cracks, bleeding, signs of infection, or persistent itching, follow your clinician's plan and seek medical advice.